Planes, Cranes and Ski-doos

Bravo-Bravo at the Ski-Way
Dave Kully (Air Mech) guides the plane in, the Laws platform is in the distance far left


The summer proceeds to pass very quickly and there are only three weeks left now until the ship returns again for second and final call. Though, in some ways fortunately, there is not much medicine to be done at the moment, the whole base is working 11 hour days for six days a week to get the essential work done prior to winter. These include preparations for building Halley VI, the replacement for the current station (Halley V) which has lasted longer than expected since coming into operation in 1990 but whose fate is sealed by the inevitable and foreseeable calving of the Brunt Ice Shelf- more about which another time.

Camping Within the Perimeter


A large proportion of my time during the summer is spent at the ski-way- an aircraft runway on a snow substrate- which at Halley is located about 2 km north of the base. BAS operate five planes running mainly out of Rothera, which being built on rock has a proper runway. From there they transport field parties further south and re-supply them during the season as well as carrying out survey work. Most of this work is carried out by twin-engined Twin Otters, while the larger Dash-7 ferries goods and passengers from Falklands to Rothera and occasionally slightly further down the Antarctic peninsula but is unable to land on snow, unlike the ski-equipped Otters.

Halley International Airport


Halley is only accessible by air from mid-November until mid-February, so it will not be long before the plane that is stationed here leaves, outside these times the darkness, weather and cold forbid flying. To give an idea of how remote the station is, should the unfortunate situation arise that somebody needs medical evacuation from here (medevac) during the summer period, once a reasonable weather window arose, which even in the summer may take several days to appear, the flight to Rothera alone would be over six and a half hours, a distance of 900 nautical miles. For all intents and purposes, this is not an option come the winter.

Getting Ready to Re-Fuel


The role of the plane while it is here, apart from ferrying a few important passengers in and out of Halley during the summer and with no major field parties operating out of Halley this summer, is to work on the Low Power Magnetometer (LPM) sites dotted deep into the continent as far south as 85°S. These are sensitive instruments capable of detecting minute fluctuations in the earth's magnetic field caused by the effects of solar radiation in the earth's upper atmosphere, which is a particular area of study at Halley. Furthermore, a large proportion of the work is maintaining stocks of fuel at depots throughout the Antarctic, which support the complex logistics of deep field work. Fuel comes as 45 gallon barrels of Avtur (AViation TURbine fuel), of which a person can carry an empty drum, moving full drums is best done by machine or when loading them into planes with at least four people rolling up a shallow incline.

On Ski-Way Duty
The Doc's ski-doo with the fire sledge attached


The ski-way for take-off and landing is always staffed by two people on the ground. The doctor is present to provide first aid cover and staff the fire sledge, as well as assisting the Air Mechanic (Dave Kully- a Canadian with a lot of experience with Twin Otters) to re-fuel the plane, tie the plane down and various other jobs as necessary. Avtur, which is used not only for the planes but also for all the vehicles (bar the ski-doos), cranes and generators given its great performance at low temperatures, has the ability to permeate all materials and wicks away heat very efficiently, hence it is easy to get very cold hands while re-fuelling!

Operating the Fassi Crane on the Container Line
This sledge mounted crane can lift up to about a ton- the containers are used for storage


Away from planes, there is plenty of things for me to do, the last few weeks have meant the opportunity to learn to use cranes, of which there are a fair few types around base to assist with moving all the supplies and scientific goods. There is a rapid learning curve in not only how to operate the crane but also as a banksman in learning to strop cargo safely and crane signals. Relief being a busy period results in all of the incoming cargo being placed in a line, nigh on 200 metres long on the snow, all of which must be distributed and packed away before it requires too much digging out or even worse disappears under accumulated snow and ice that is constantly burying things as it is blown around by katabatic winds.

Sno-Cat 'K19' Towing a Sledge of Cargo up the Laws Windtail


While the Brunt Ice Shelf, upon which Halley lies, is exceedingly flat, as the photo above illustrates there are some contours which provide some interest and relief for the eye. Along with the eponymous sastrugi, which at Halley are rarely higher than about six inches, any object generates a wind tail if left on the snow for a period of time. The downwind tail is influenced by the shape of the object and the length of time is has been present. They can form a trap behind any object, particularly after a big blow or in poor contrast conditions when they may be rendered invisible. The largest however, is that behind the Laws platform forming a small hill to the east of the platform given that the wind is predominantly westerly. It is possible to get an idea of the size from the photo above.

Trying Out the Ski-Doo on the Sea Ice in December


As for ski-doos, the base occasionally acquires the appearance of a Bond villain's secret hide-away with particularly the aging Alpine II ski-doos darting around. I am fortunate as it is perceived that the doc requires a reliable easy to start machine in case of an emergency, as a result I am fortunate to whizz round on a powerful brand new 'doo.

BBQ Outside the Drewry (Summer) Accommodation



Despite all the work, there has been time to relax, including the annual Drewry vs Laws football match, which this year was fortunate not to result in any injuries, unlike previous years. Unfortunately one side decided to cheat by actually using skill to win, though any particular attempts at overt proficiency were quickly ruined by a rapidly deteriorating surface.

Summerers vs Winterers Football Match
Photos courtesy of Bob Pratt (Z-Gen: Generator Mechanic)



The weather here is relatively balmy and has occasionally even crept above 0°C, at which point everything becomes wet and unpleasant. It has hit -10°C on a few occasions, however, it is the relentless wind that adds a particular chill to the place, since in the absence of any wind, the -5 to -8 temperature that predominates is more than comfortable. In these conditions most people are happy working outside in the ubiquitous orange boilersuits. A feature of the broad horizon on the Brunt is the contrast in colour of the sky over the Weddell sea- deep blue- as opposed to over the continent where it melts into a much paler blue, a stunning effect that is difficult to illustrate photographically, like many of the subtleties here.

The Laws Platform From the Piggott Platform
The Weddell Sea lies to the north (behind the Laws)


There has also been the opportunity to start our field training; we are all fortunate that during the winter we will have the chance to undertake at least two extended field trips away from base. Prior to that and before being allowed to do anything particularly serious off base it is necessary to know how to pitch the pyramid tents, light a Primus stove, Tilley lamp and have a good idea what lives in the numerable boxes that are taken on any trip. Hence a night camping in a pyramid tent within the base perimeter (see photo above)- all-in-all not too dissimilar from camping at the end of the garden as a kid.

The Halley Post Office


Given that we all currently live in the British Antarctic Territory (BAT), it is important to be able to send mail home or elsewhere round the world. Fortunately, as an Overseas Territory (along with Gibraltar and the Falklands- more information) the BAT issues its own stamps. (Unfortunately we also all have to pay BAT Tax!) My mother fails to believe that I currently live in a Post Office but the photos of the Laws front door should prove otherwise. Hence the occasional opening hours every fortnight or so in the summer, when after dinner the box of stamps and first day covers is brought out by Alex (Piggott Computer Wizard and Assistant Post Master)

Entrance to the Laws Platform


Detail on the Front Door
From underneath the 'Laws' sign

Into The New Year At Halley

On New Year's Eve we broke through the ice and managed to moor up at N9, some 60km distant from Halley. It has therefore not unsurprisingly been a busy fortnight, hence the tardiness in updating the blog. N9 represents a location where the Brunt ice shelf, upon which Halley is built, slopes down to the sea ice allowing easy access of Sno-cats to the ship to unload cargo. There are creeks (see photo below) sighted much closer to Halley itself (as near as15km) but these are notoriously unreliable and again this year were enclosed by sea ice. N9 regularly forms a reliable if distant alternative particularly since the Sno-cats average no faster than about 10km/h.

The Ernest Shackleton at N9


There is only one year that the Shackleton has not made it in through the sea ice, which year the base had to be relieved by ferrying essential goods and passengers 300km by plane. It was a relief all round to finally make it through, as nobody would have wanted to return to Stanley (or even Cape Town) to re-fuel prior to making another go of it- least of all the Halley winterers desperate for mail, fresh food and new faces.

Another Snow Petrel


As a result New Year's Eve was spent on the ship, celebrated at midnight by the traditional ringing of the ship's bell. By tradition given that midnight represents eight bells in nautical timekeeping, the eldest member of the ship's complement rings four bells to ring out the year, while the youngest rings the second set of four. And so began 2007.

Ringing in 2007
James Morrison (Z-Carpenter- L) and Charlie Chalk (Bosun- R)


The ship calls twice at Halley during the summer, now (first call) and at the end of summer (second call) to remove all the summer-only staff and waste generated over this busy work period. However, the outgoing Halley doctor is one of the few who leaves the station at first call as they are required to take my place and provide medical cover on the Shackleton. As a result I was very fortunate to get flown the twenty minutes from the ship down to base rather than the six hour Sno-cat journey so that we could start our handover as quickly as possible.

The Creeks From The Air
The Brunt Ice Shelf is on the left surrounded by sea ice

I can not imagine a more magical way to start 2007 and a year living in the Antarctic. To first glimpse the buildings that will form home for the forthcoming twelve months from the window of the BAS Twin Otter was exhilarating. The arrival at the ski-way several kilometres away from the main platform and to be surrounded by flat white ice as far as the eye can see, meeting cloudless uninterrupted blue sky surpasses my limited descriptive and photographic abilities. Indeed like a lot of the voyage down, though I have seen lots of photographs and film of Halley nothing captures the sense of space and the flat glistening expanse.

First Glimpse of Halley


The relief of the station is a major undertaking as all the supplies (including fuel, food, medicines, science equipment and building materials for the summer) have to be brought up to the station, as well as all the waste from the previous year removed. It usually takes about seven days and did so this year despite the weather stopping operations occasionally. Once the wind starts to pick up (a blow) it whips up the ice off the surface leading to a rapid deterioration in visibility along with a complete loss of contrast.

Tying the Twin Otter Down for the Night in a Blow


Of the four Twin Otters that BAS operates, one is assigned to Halley over the summer (more to follow about these another time). During relief it ferries a lot of the fragile and delicate goods that would suffer if they froze on a sledge attached to the back of a Sno-cat. Amongst these fragile items is over a quarter of a ton of medical supplies, which once relief is over will be unpacked and put away, while the out-of-date kit is packaged up and returned to the UK for incineration.

Off-loading Medical Supplies


However, the majority of the incoming goods make the slow journey overland, including a thousand-plus 205 litre barrels of Avtur (AViation TURbine fuel) that forms part of the fuel requirements of the base generators and plane, along with a limited amount of petrol for the vehicles. The empty barrels at the end of the year then have to be returned to the ship to be removed to comply with our obligations under the Antarctic Treaty. This means a certain amount of digging as they are stored in stacks three high but are now buried deep in snow and frozen solid.

Digging Out Avtur Barrels


Relief like most of the year round at Halley is epitomised by hard physical labour for everyone, whether that being manhandling large boxes, moving barrels of Avtur or digging, digging and digging- the customised cranes and vehicles can only do so much given the nature of the Antarctic. Smoko- mid-morning and mid-afternoon break- is a welcome relief to warm up and eat more food.

Vicki Hands Over the Base Medical Supplies


Given the brief time I had with Vicki, the outgoing winter doc, and the plethora of things to do, time flies away particularly as the ship- now behind schedule- was champing to get away. There is a lot of new information to acquire rapidly from day-to-day mundane material to discussing the Major Incident Plan, should the worst happen. She has has a relatively quiet medical year here and jokingly rues not even having had the chance do any suturing, I can only hope that mine is similarly peaceful.

So as the fifty-first Halley doctor It is phenomenally exciting to be here at last since I known that I have wanted to work here for a long time and I know my year will live up to those heavy expectations.

Halley Research Station Panorama (click to enlarge)
Platforms from left to right: Laws (Accommodation)- Simpson (Science- Meteorology) - Piggott (Upper Atmosphere Research)

Christmas in the Ice

Snow Petrel

And through the drifts the snowy clifts
Did send a dismal sheen:
Nor shapes of men nor beasts we ken--
The ice was all between.

The ice was here, the ice was there,
The ice was all around:
It cracked and growled, and roared and howled,
Like noises in a swound!

Sea Ice Through a Porthole


The Rime of the Ancient Mariner, which has provided material for many of the blog entries, again captures the sense of desolation that being in the midst of the Antarctic can inspire, along with the noises that permeate through the ship as the hull grinds slowly through the heavy ice pack. As is clear possibly from this entry, the ship is not quite where it was expected to be; as I wrote the entry last time it appeared that we were less than twenty-four hours from our destination. Around eighty nautical miles out we encountered heavy ice that meant that Christmas was spent sitting conserving fuel, waiting for the conditions to improve. and ideally a 'lead' to appear to take us close to the site for the relief of Halley.

Ship's Course Through the Ice
Intended route is along the red line heading down the screen

The major problem has been second-year ice that has been broken about in storms across the winter, piled up on top of itself and then re-frozen providing a challenge for even this ship. These links provide a glossary to some of the terms used in respect of sea ice and some more information about how sea ice forms. Icebergs are different in that they are generally parts of glaciers or ice shelves that have broken off into the sea and are generally higher than five metres, hence these are avoided, though being freshwater they provide excellent ice cubes.

A Sunstar in the East

As a result it has been one of the most memorable Christmas celebrations I can remember, though for complicated reasons relating to work, Christmas lunch was on the 27th. Celebrations all kicked off with carol singing, though given the eerie twenty-four hour daylight, it does not quite have the same atmosphere at 10 o'clock at night. Any similarities to a Guantanamo Bay exercise yard were dispelled by the strong Welsh voices of Evans, Evans and Evans.

Carol Singing on the Fo'c'sle

Just as we were getting used to the isolation, we were treated on Christmas day to a fly-past by one of the BAS Twin Otters working out of Halley. It had flown up to see whether they could identify any leads or easier sites for the ship's passage. It was co-piloted by the current Halley Doctor, Vicki, which at the moment is about as close as I have come to meeting her.

Twin Otter Fly-Past

It has been unusual not to be spending Christmas in a hospital and has made me appreciate the surroundings all the more. Lunch on the 27th was a quite spectacular blow-out where the cooks all showed off their abilities. Given that there are two ship's cooks along with summer (Issy) and wintering (Antony) chefs for Halley, there was quite an impressive array of food, all the more so given the remoteness of our location.

The View on Christmas Day

Food generally on the ship can be a pitfall, it is not unknown for people to gain two stone during a short time on board. Ships still provision for the heavy labour that would have been involved not that long ago on merchant vessels; the fried breakfasts, snacks at smoko and excellent meals provide a trap for the undisciplined. All the more so given the furthest I may walk in a day is up four flights of stairs. (For the record and before I receive abusive emails- I have lost weight on the journey down!).

The Shackleton Alongside a Floe


With Christmas a rapidly fading memory, there has been time to get off the ship. Though sea ice can be treacherous (falling through ice into water at -2°C is not ideal), the captain managed to find some large floes of reliable thickness, for the ship to sit alongside while the we kept ourselves occupied with training sessions on the ice, including 'doo school to ensure we passed the proficiency tests prior to using the ubiquitous ski-doos at Halley.

'Doo School


My main transferable skill is teaching First Aid, so as a precursor to the winter DocSchool, the time has been filled with more training for those interested. Not surprisingly attempting to suture chickens back together has become a popular diversion.

Stevie B (Ship's Radio Officer) Performs Life Saving Surgery on a Frozen Chicken



Even though I have only been away about nine weeks now, it is easy to get blasé about the fantastic environment in which I am working. However, there can be few people who have the opportunity to learn the basics of field work, such as rope work and using ice axes, on the middle of an ice floe in the middle of nowhere with only Emperor penguins for company.

Emperor Penguins


They are so un-used to seeing other creatures on the ice and so inquisitive, though we are keen to ensure we do not disturb them by keeping a wide berth, they will waddle over or slide on their bellies to examine any activity, before disappearing off into the sea. None of these photos give an idea of their size, which is about three to four feet tall. The photo below demonstrates sea ice in the foreground with the cliffs, which rise to about 50 metres high, form part of the Stancomb-Wills ice stream, part of the Antarctic continent.

More Emperors