Falkland Islands

After a short run down the coast of South America, we stopped again at the Falkland Islands. The Islands, particularly Stanley, are used by BAS as a gateway into the Antarctic. The bulk of personnel are flown in on the RAF air bridge from Brize Norton along with commercial flights from the UK, before flying onwards on BAS aircraft to Rothera Station in the Antarctic.

The Wreck of Lady Elizabeth, Stanley

As the Shackleton acts predominantly as a supply ship, there was plenty of cargo to be taken off and brought on. This means that everybody gets involved with various operations.

Stevedores for the Ernest Shackleton in Mare Harbour

(L-R: Me (Z-Doc), Pete Milner (Z- Winter Base Commander), Andy (Z- Plant Mech), Jim (R- Boatman)

There was, nonetheless, plenty of time for a run ashore and explore the area around Stanley, which feels like a rural New Zealand town, given the buildings, size and waterfront. The countryside is rolling moorland filled with sheep and a complete absence of trees. The whole of the Falklands is surrounded by various wrecks not least in the harbour around Stanley itself.

Christ Church Cathedral, Stanley

It would not be possible to visit the islands without visiting some of the battlefields, though there are area from which mines are yet to be cleared. Given the great weather, which probably showed the islands off in their best light, given their reputation for rain, rain and more rain, we made the most of it by exploring the area around Tumbledown Mountain, where one of the last battles took place prior to the fall of Stanley almost 25 years ago. The area still has an eerie quality given the nine British and thirty Argentinian soldiers who lost their lives.

Memorial atop Tumbledown with Stanley in the distance

360° View from Tumbledown Mountain (click on photo to enlarge)

The Falklands also gave the first chance to see penguins this trip; most of the population I saw inhabit York Bay close to Stanley, where the Argentinian conscripts dropped most of their anti-personnel mines as soon as they came ashore. As a result the area is a large minefield (the close-up is in the adjacent bay with a long zoom- I was not putting myself at great risk for a shot of a penguin!)

Magellanic Penguins

From here we sail briefly into Antarctic waters to stop at Signy, a BAS summer-only base in the South Orkneys, to relieve the base and to assist with building work.